Icelandic Moss Lichen (Cetraria islandica) Organic

$9.50

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Lichens have been used as dyestuffs for centuries, providing a surprising range of colours depending on species and method of extraction. This sun-dried lichen, cut into pieces, is a versatile material for the dyer. Depending on the process, lichens can yield soft yellows, earthy browns, warm oranges, or even rich purples.

Historical Note
In Europe, lichen dyes were among the earliest recorded local colourants, long before exotic dyestuffs were imported. The famous Scottish and Irish “crottle” dyes, for example, gave deep purples and reddish browns. The so-called “orchil” or “cudbear” dyes, extracted through ammonia steeping, were important in textile history as substitutes for the costly murex purple.

Active Coloring Compounds
Depsides, depsidones, and lichen acids (e.g. orcein, lecanoric acid, usnic acid — depending on species).

CI Colour Name
Closest family: CI Natural Red 28 / Natural Brown 7 (varies greatly by lichen species).

Shading Tips

Boiling water extraction → yellows, oranges, and browns
Ammonia extraction (orchil method) → purples, violets, pinks
Length of steeping, fibre type, and mordant choice all affect final results

Part used: whole lichen (sun-dried, cut into pieces)

WOF: varies by species and desired shade; start with 50–100% WOF

Extraction methods:

Boiling water — simmer lichens in water to release colour; add fibres and continue simmering until shade develops.

Ammonia steeping (“orchil” method) — cover lichens with household ammonia (traditionally stale urine), leave for 2–3 weeks, stirring daily, until liquid turns deep purple. Dilute with water and use as a dye bath.

Mordanting: often not required; colours develop directly on fibre, though alum or iron may shift hues.

Fibres: works on both protein and cellulose.